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Vinkovci: The Oldest Town You’ve Never Heard Of
If you’re searching for a real Croatian experience, then Vinkovci should be your next stop.
Tucked away in the eastern region of Slavonija, this small town is often skipped by travelers (and even most Croatians). Which honestly makes it even better.
If you’re reading this, you’re already ahead of the curve, because Vinkovci is where you’ll find the kind of authentic, down-to-earth Croatia that most visitors never get to see.
Hi! I’m Olivia, a US-born Croatian who’s been living in Croatia full-time since 2014. I’ve spent over 30 years exploring the country, from childhood visits to now traveling every corner as my job.
📍 Make sure to grab my free Croatia map with 500+ places I’ve personally visited and recommend.
I’ve been to Vinkovci more times than I can count, and not just passing through. I have family in the area, so visiting this part of Slavonija has always felt a bit like coming home. It’s one of those towns that doesn’t try to impress you, but once you start exploring, you realize how much it has to offer, from layers of history and local traditions to seriously good food and genuine hospitality.
This guide is packed with everything I’ve learned and loved about Vinkovci over the years, plus a few tips you won’t find anywhere else.
So if you’re ready to experience Croatia beyond the coast, here’s exactly how to spend your time in one of its most underrated towns.
Vinkovci, Croatia
Before getting into what to do, here’s a bit about Vinkovci, Croatia, a small town with one of the biggest historical claims in Europe.
Vinkovci is the longest continuously inhabited town in Europe, with people living here for more than 8,300 years, all the way back to the Stone Age. Every era, from prehistoric times to the Romans and beyond, has left its mark on this place.
During Roman times, Vinkovci was known as Cibalae, and it was the birthplace of two Roman emperors, Valens and Valentinian I. You can still see traces of that legacy across town, especially in the local museum, where artifacts from different periods tell the story of one of Europe’s oldest communities.
Once you’re there, you’ll quickly see that Vinkovci isn’t just about history. It’s a living, breathing town with great food, culture, and some of the warmest hospitality you’ll find anywhere in Croatia.
✅ Stay: Villa Ljiljana – cozy, comfortable, and close to the town center
✅ Eat: Lu Restaurant (my top pick in town)
✅ Drink: Hang Loose Café
✅ Best Time to Visit: September for Vinkovačke Jeseni
✅ How to Get There: Renting a car is the easiest way to reach Vinkovci
How to Get to Vinkovci
The easiest way to reach Vinkovci is by car.
It’s about a 3-hour drive from Zagreb or around 1 hour from Slavonski Brod, depending on traffic. Driving gives you the freedom to explore more of Slavonija, which is full of small towns, vineyards, and traditional restaurants that are hard to reach without your own wheels.
You can also take the train from Zagreb, which takes roughly 4 hours. The trains are new and comfortable, but if you plan to explore the region beyond Vinkovci, having a car is definitely the better option. I always rent through Discover Cars because they consistently have the best rates and reliable service.
10 Things to Do in Vinkovci Croatia
Vinkovci is officially the longest continuously inhabited city in Europe, with people living here for more than 8,300 years — since the Stone Age. It’s wild to think about. Two Roman emperors, Valens and Valentinian, were even born here when the town was known as Cibalae.
If you’re planning a visit to this part of Croatia, here’s a quick cheat sheet to help you make the most of your time in Vinkovci.
1. Visit the City Museum
If you do one thing in Vinkovci, make it the City Museum. It’s small but fascinating and gives you a glimpse into just how old this town really is. Inside, you’ll find life-sized displays showing what everyday life looked like through the ages: from the Stone Age to Roman times and beyond.
The museum is also home to one of the most important archaeological discoveries in Europe: the Orion Pot. Found during construction in 1978, this ancient ceramic piece dates back to 2600 BC and is believed to depict the oldest known calendar in Europe.
Entry costs just €2, which feels almost symbolic for the amount of history packed inside.
2. Pop Into the Public Library
I know, visiting a library isn’t usually on a travel itinerary. But trust me, Vinkovci’s public library is worth a look.
It’s modern, interactive, and surprisingly impressive for a smaller town. Locals are proud of it, and it often hosts cultural events and exhibits.
Even if you just step inside for a few minutes, or have a coffee at the library cafe, it gives you a feel for the community spirit here.
3. The Telephone Gallery
Right next to the city park (Gradski Park Vinkovci), you’ll find one of the smallest art galleries in the world, literally inside a red phone booth.
The idea behind the Telephone Gallery is to bring art into daily life, with tiny rotating exhibits that change throughout the year. It’s quirky, creative, and one of those things that perfectly represents how Vinkovci mixes history with modern ideas.
4. Grab a Drink at Hang Loose Café
If you love a bit of nostalgia, Hang Loose Café is your spot.
This retro bar is like stepping into the 60s and 70s, with old-school rock and roll vibes, vintage furniture, and even a few classic cars and oldtimers scattered around. One section feels like a cozy diner, another like a grandma’s living room.
Outside, there’s a relaxed courtyard with a small stage where local musicians often play live sets. Order a beer or cocktail, sink into a chair, and enjoy the easygoing atmosphere.
It’s one of my favorite places in town to unwind!
5. Walk Along the Bosut River
The Bosut River runs through Vinkovci, and it’s not just any river.
No one really knows where it begins or ends, because it doesn’t have a clear source. Instead, the Bosut formed as a tributary of several different rivers. It’s shallow with a muddy bottom, full of fish, and locals like to call it “ćudljiva rijeka,” or the temperamental river, because in the morning it flows in one direction and by afternoon it changes course and flows the other way.
It’s also one of the prettiest spots in town, especially in autumn when the leaves along the banks turn golden and the air feels crisp. The riverside paths are peaceful and perfect for a walk, and you’ll often see locals fishing, cycling, or sitting on a bench watching the water drift by (whichever direction it happens to be going that day).
6. Coffee at Gymnasium Café
Every Croatian town has that one iconic café where everyone meets up, and in Vinkovci, it’s Gymnasium Café.
It’s right on the main square, making it perfect for people-watching. Inside, it’s warm and cozy during winter, and outside, the terrace is buzzing on weekends.
The coffee is solid, and the location couldn’t be better for soaking up the rhythm of local life.
7. Eat Local Food
Vatikan
Start with Vatikan, a true Vinkovci institution that’s been run by the same family for nearly 40 years.
The restaurant is famous for one thing and one thing only, fiš paprikaš. This spicy red stew is made exclusively with carp (šaran), paprika, and a few secret family ingredients.
It’s slow-cooked for hours over an open flame in a huge cauldron, and the result is rich, bold, and completely unique to Slavonija. Even if, like me, you usually prefer saltwater fish, this dish is an essential local experience.
Marabu Vinkovci
Marabu is another local favorite, known for its wide menu that includes everything from pizza and salads to hearty main dishes.
It’s casual and friendly, with a relaxed vibe that makes it an easy choice for both lunch and dinner. They also have some tasty options for brunch!
Lu
If you’re in the mood for something a little cozier and more refined, Lu is my go-to.
It’s intimate, beautifully decorated, and the food could easily hold its own in restaurants in much bigger cities.
Their Tagliatelle šokac (tagliatelle with pork, seasonal mushrooms, bacon, and a slightly spicy sauce) is unbelievably good, and their burgers are some of the best I’ve had, anywhere.
Šokački Stan
Šokački Stan a beautifully restored 19th-century estate that sits on the outskirts of town and is led by a young chef who’s passionate about preserving local culinary heritage.
Families come here to enjoy traditional dishes from the Vukovar-Srijem region in a rustic setting surrounded by nature. The space feels warm, homey, and deeply rooted in tradition.
8. Try Local Street Food
You can’t leave Vinkovci without trying lepinjice, also known as poderane gaće (which literally translates to “ripped underwear”). Don’t let the name fool you…these are heavenly.
Soft pieces of homemade dough are fried until golden, then topped with whatever your heart desires: chocolate, sour cream, homemade jam, powdered sugar, or just a sprinkle of salt.
You’ll usually find them at local fairs or street food stalls, hot and fresh straight from the oil. They’re simple, comforting, and dangerously addictive. My go-to combo is garlic and olive oil with sour cream, but honestly, sour cream and plum jam is on another level.
It sounds strange, but trust me, it works!
9. Sip on Valens Craft Beer
Vinkovci even has its own local brew, Valens Craft Beer, named after Emperor Valens himself, who was born right here. Legend has it Valens preferred beer to wine, and the brewery proudly carries that story forward.
You can try it in several bars around town (including Hang Loose), or at Craft Bar Valens.
10. Visit During a Festival
Vinkovci knows how to throw a festival, and timing your visit right makes all the difference.
In June, the town hosts Roman Days, a celebration of its ancient roots, complete with costumes, markets, and reenactments that turn the city into a living museum.
In September, don’t miss Vinkovačke Jeseni, one of the most beautiful cultural festivals in Croatia. It’s a full-on celebration of folklore, traditional dress, and music from across the country.
And if you’re here in February, check out Pokladno Jahanje, a horse-riding event, which honors the region’s deep equestrian heritage. You’ll see riders in traditional Slavonian garments trotting through the old quarters of town, something truly special.
Final Thoughts
Vinkovci might not be on your radar yet, but it’s one of those towns that quietly wins you over.
Between its ancient history, down-to-earth charm, and genuinely kind people, it offers a different side of Croatia that most travelers never see.
Spend a weekend here, slow down, and soak in the warmth of Slavonija…I promise you’ll want to keep coming back for more.
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Croatia Travel Planning Guide
💸 What is the currency in Croatia?
As of January 1st, 2023, the official currency of Croatia is the Euro and NOT the Kuna (which is also the name of the national animal of Croatia).
🇭🇷 What language do they speak in Croatia?
Croatian is the official language of Croatia. Learn some phrases in Croatian before your trip with the Ling app!
🚑 Should I buy Croatia travel insurance?
10000% YES – Seriously, don’t leave home without it. You never know what can happen on the road. I like SafetyWing because they provide excellent coverage for as little as $1.50 a day.
📱 Will my phone work in Croatia?
Maybe – check with your provider to see if you’ll have service while traveling Croatia. If you don’t have service (or it’s too expensive) I recommend getting an eSIM like Airalo. Airalo allows you to have data while traveling without the high costs of roaming. They have super affordable plans available for 190+ countries, including Croatia. Download the app and get your plan before you leave home so that you have data as soon as you touch down in Croatia!
🏨 What’s the best way to book my Croatia accommodations?
For Croatia hotels, Booking is by far the best site.
🛫 What’s the best site to buy Croatia flights?
I always use Skyscanner to find the cheapest flights.
🚗 Is it safe to rent a Car in Croatia?
Yes! – In fact, renting a car in Croatia is one of the best ways to see the country! I recommend Discover Cars because they check both local and international rental companies to ensure you get the best deal. (Get your Croatia road trip itinerary here)
💦 Is it safe to drink the water in Croatia?
Tap water in Croatia is completely safe to drink, so bring your reusable water bottle and fill up!
🪪 Do I need a visa for Croatia?
Depending on where you are coming from you may or may not need a visa to enter Croatia. Check the official Republic of Croatia Ministry of Foreign Affairs website for more information on who should apply for a visa.
